A collaboration with London College of Fashion students has produced fila shoes for running a series of toiles of the garments that reveal the subtle technical arts that transformed runway glamour into clothes that were meticulously made to disguise clients' flaws and enhance their physical assets. In this context, it is a pity that some of the compellingly stylish and flattering clothes that Balenciaga designed for his more Wagnerian clients are not on display. One wishes as well that the fascinating objects had more room to breathe (space constraints meant that my Queen Sofía exhibition was densely arranged, too). In the airy upper galleries, meanwhile, curator Cassie Davies-Strodder suggests Balenciaga's enduring influence, showing examples of his protégés' work along with the clothing of contemporary designers who have played with Balenciaga's design tropes.
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The setting for his show was ecclesiastic in aesthetics grant hill fila 96 and tone, with four long narrow pools set in the shape of a cross, cutting through the grand center corridors of this city's historic Laennec Hall, which was founded in the 1800s by medical students and Jesuits. With its soaring ceiling and extravagant archways, the building recalled the high-church atmosphere that accompanied a presentation by the house's founder, Crisobal Balenciaga. But the collection also exuded joy and an optimistic tilt towards the future. Indeed, as the soundtrack revved up, a baseline thumped and boomed: "I'm Going Back to Cali. " The designer, born and raised in San Francisco, turned his swan song into a celebration. If there was any lingering doubt that his departure was by mutual agreement with Balenciaga's parent company Kering, the message of the show underscored that indeed it was.
If Wang brought anything to Balenciaga during his time there, it was a greater ease and effortlessness to its aesthetic. He took his cues from lowbrow sportswear and allowed it to rise higher. But Wang also took from Balenciaga, allowing its polish and refinement to influence his signature collection, to which he will once again be able turn his full attention. At the time, Wang became the first American name to head a heritage French label in over a decade, and the first since the recession to run two houses concurrently. While the pair seemed an incongruous match, Balenciaga has stated that he was always their number one choice for the post. Now that it's over, and decidedly short-lived in its 10 collections, what did Alexander Wang achieve at Balenciaga?
For Wang's namesake label the decision to do two brands has also resulted in positive numbers. The Alexander Wang company has been growing by approximately 20 percent a year for the last three years, with a recent fila original fitness London outpost opened the biggest Alexander Wang flagship and its first in Europe. Although Wang's tenure didn't result in anything overtly memorable or spectacular, his reputation did open up a whole new audience whose eyes were suddenly focused on Balenciaga. With a cult-like following from the enormous success of his eponymous brand, Wang's surprise appointment to the high fashion house brought a widened audience that suddenly included those more urban and streetwise, in addition to the high fashion consumers that already existed. People who would never have been clothed in Balenciaga were suddenly into its elevated looks.
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